The Attraction of Lourdes
Every Lourdes Journey Is Different
They say everyone starts the journey with similar hopes. When I first sat down to write my impressions, I was half-thinking my account wouldn’t be worth much, seeing as the story has been told so many times before. But even though it’s the same basic tale, I’m certain that every journey is different. Part of the real drawcard of Lourdes is that every pilgrim experiences it in their own way. It draws everyone onto the same path, yet each arrives carrying a unique set of burdens, hardships, and expectations.
A Pilgrimage Without a Smartphone
My trip was a simple four-day stay—a proper retreat without the internet, a mobile phone, a camera, or even air conditioning. My expectations were straightforward. I was looking for a measure of peace for my soul in a world that constantly seeks to unsettle it. I wanted time to reflect and remember. I hoped to be unburdened of many things. Above all, I longed for quiet moments to pray to Our Lady and to ask her help with all that I carried.
A Place of Stark Contrasts
My first impression of Lourdes was that it is a place of striking contrasts, born of extremes. It was far more dramatic than I had expected. The foothills of the Pyrenees are marked by steep cliffs, mysterious caves, and scrubby, barren land. The Gave River flows swiftly and powerfully. While praying in the Grotto, it was not unusual to feel a sudden gust of wind, reinforcing the sense that something profound was taking place. The scorching heat of a July day stood in sharp contrast to the cool mountain air at night.
Exuberant Wildness
This contrast is especially evident in the cave itself. It is tucked into a massive rocky hill beside the river. I had always imagined the cave as separate from the basilica, but the vast Gothic sanctuary rises directly above it, its stone foundations gripping the rock like roots and dominating the rugged landscape. And yet, the cave retains the wildness it must have had at the time of the apparitions. Untamed shrubs and wild grass cling tenaciously to the cracks in the stone.
What Are Che Guevara Shirts Doing in Lourdes?
Almost as striking as the scenery is the diversity of pilgrims. They come from every corner of the world and speak countless languages. Yet the sharpest contrast lies in the culture—sincere expressions of faith existing alongside the disordered elements of the modern world. This is visible even in attire, such as pilgrims wearing Che Guevara shirts and caps. It seems that the struggle of an internal “culture war” within the soul is precisely what draws so many people to Lourdes.
The Heart of Lourdes
All of this forms the backdrop for what unfolds within the soul. Prayer takes place amid this dramatic setting. The Grotto is the true heart of Lourdes; throughout the town, signs point unambiguously towards it. I spent hours praying there, gazing at the life-sized statue of Our Lady set about four and a half metres above the ground in the rock. There is always much taking place—Mass, adoration, and the Rosary. At times, one may kneel close to the statue; at others, distance is required because of the crowds. At night, large candles illuminate the area, creating an atmosphere conducive to reflection and prayer.
Pilgrims Leave Their Intentions Behind
A steady stream of pilgrims passes through the cave, moving slowly along its walls. Deep within lies the spring from which so many healings and blessings have flowed. Everyone touches the walls, now smooth from countless hands over time. Pilgrims touch the rock and bless themselves with the tiny trickles of water seeping through the cracks. Foreheads rest against the stone. Prayer notes, candles, and flowers are left behind. People ask, pray, and plead for Our Lady’s intercession. Some emerge visibly moved, others contemplative. Yet one detail stood out to me: everyone leaves the cave with a solemn expression—you do not see anyone smiling.
Broken Humanity
Lourdes belongs to those who suffer—the sick and the struggling who arrive bearing what seem like “impossible” cases. Physical illness and disability are visible everywhere; it is a confronting display of human suffering. The most difficult cases are cared for with remarkable devotion. Tens of thousands of volunteers attend to every need, many of them women wearing white habits, assisting those who suffer the most.
Genuine Charity
Here, people with disabilities are treated with authentic charity. They accept assistance with humility, unashamed of their frailty—something that awaits us all in time. At every event—the processions, the adoration, the visits to the Grotto—rows of old three-wheeled wheelchairs are present. Many have been healed at Lourdes; others receive the strength to endure their trials. Each person is treated with dignity and care.
Spiritual Suffering
Others arrive bearing a different kind of burden—spiritual suffering. Everyone carries a cross, and I count myself among these pilgrims. One may not be cured of inner anguish, but it feels as though a healing balm has been applied, making the burden lighter. One leaves feeling, in some measure, restored.
The Night Rosary Procession
The Rosary Procession is the great highlight of the day. Each evening at 9.00 pm, the faithful gather around the basilica to pray the Rosary. This is no ordinary service. On the Saturday evening I attended, an estimated 90,000 pilgrims filled the main square.
An Atmosphere of Rapture and Triumph
As night approaches, shopkeepers set out procession candles fitted with paper lanterns. For a small cost, anyone may take one and join in. There is an atmosphere of rapture—and even triumph—that seems to arise from the joy of being Catholic, a profound sense of unity amid great diversity. Although the Hail Mary is prayed in many languages, the remaining prayers are sung or recited in Latin with ease and harmony.
Our Lady of Lourdes
A life-sized statue of Our Lady of Lourdes is carried solemnly across the main square, marking the beginning of the procession. Thousands of Catholics follow. Hundreds of the sick, seated in wheelchairs, are guided along by volunteers—they are the true centre of the event. As darkness falls, the candle lanterns cast a gentle glow, creating an atmosphere of reverence and prayer.
Beautiful Marian Hymns
The procession extends along the full length of the sanctuary’s main avenue. After each decade of the Rosary, a Marian hymn is sung. Ô Vierge Marie is a particular favourite, sung in many languages. During the refrain, lanterns are raised high in praise of the Blessed Mother, a gesture repeated during the final Salve Regina. The basilica’s two sweeping walkways embrace the square like arms, filled with pilgrims praying and singing, forming a vast amphitheatre of faith. Gradually, the procession concludes, and the great crowd disperses quietly into the night.
A Lady of Heartfelt Care
What can be said of the statue of Our Lady of Lourdes? How does she communicate with the faithful? Such perceptions are inevitably personal, as Our Lady speaks differently to each soul. I can only describe my own experience at the Grotto.
Typically French
To me, the statue of Our Lady of Lourdes appears distinctly French. She lacks the exuberance often associated with Spanish or Italian Madonnas. She stands in the grotto, gaze lifted modestly, gestures restrained. Yet she radiates profound mercy and goodness. Her gentleness reminded me of the French locals and shopkeepers I encountered, who greeted me politely with “Bonjour monsieur” and went out of their way to assist me.
Polite Goodness
Our Lady’s goodness in Lourdes carries that same refined yet intense kindness—deeply respectful of the person, regardless of weakness or fault. I felt honoured during my prayer before her. Within that reverence, I encountered a motherly care unlike anything I had known before. Leaving Lourdes and the Grotto on Sunday morning to catch my train was difficult. I said my farewells slowly, turning back several times for one last look and a final au revoir—a memory that remains deeply etched in my mind.
A Change and a Promise
On the return journey, I reflected on the pilgrimage. It resembled those undertaken by millions before me, yet I realised anew that every pilgrimage is unique—that is the true attraction of Lourdes. Did I find what I sought? I did not experience a dramatic miracle, nor did I ask for one. What I did encounter was a motherly gaze—a place where one may simply be heard. I found a refuge standing in stark contrast to the chaos of the modern world. Our Lady does not excuse the sins of our age, but she calls us as we are and invites us back to faithful practice.
Peace in the Soul
I returned changed in ways difficult to express. A deep sense of peace settled within my soul. Lourdes has a purifying effect; it orders the heart. I felt a promise—not so much given to me by Our Lady, but one drawn from me: a promise to return. My experience is best expressed by an antiphon from the Little Office of the Blessed Virgin Mary, sung at Vespers:
Trahe nos, Virgo immaculata; post te curremus in odorem unguentorum tuorum.
“Draw us, O Immaculate Virgin; we shall run after thee because of the fragrance of thy ointments.”
Laatst bijgewerkt: 2 March 2026 14:58